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Making an old toilet work again

Almost nothing that goes wrong with a toilet is the china. A tank that runs, a flush that no longer clears the bowl and a seat that slides are three separate parts, each a short repair. The order below is the order of diagnosis, and every part was sold on Amazon.com on October 29, 2026.

Five parts, in the order a toilet usually needs them. Prices are Amazon.com, read on October 29, 2026.

1. The tank that runs: the flapper

A slow leak from tank to bowl is the commonest toilet fault, and the cheapest. Measure the valve opening, then buy the flapper for it. On a 3-inch valve, the Fluidmaster 5403 has a silicone seal stated to resist chlorine and hard water, a dial to set the flush volume and a ten-year warranty, at about $17.

2. A worn 2-inch valve seat

If a new flapper still leaks, the seat it closes on is pitted. The Fluidmaster PerforMAX 555C puts a new seat and flapper on a 2-inch valve without removing the tank, at about $12.

3. Using less water per flush

On a standard two-piece toilet, the Danco HydroRight converts the flush to dual flush with a push-button handle, at about $26. It states it does not fit Mansfield toilets or one-piece toilets; read that before ordering.

4. The seat that slides

A seat that shifts every time someone sits is a hardware problem. The Kohler Brevia has Grip-Tight bumpers, Quick-Attach hardware and quick-release hinges, and fits compact elongated bowls as well as standard ones, at about $31. Measure from the bolts to the front of the bowl first: Kohler does not accept opened seats back.

5. If you want a bidet

The LUXE Bidet NEO 120 attaches under your existing seat with no electricity, with nozzles that retract behind a guard gate, at about $40. It is cold water only, like every bidet on this site.

What not to buy

A new toilet. The china is the part that does not wear out, and every fault above lives in something bolted to it.

Which fitting does your bathroom take?

It runs constantly
The flush valve or the fill valve, and both are replaceable parts.
The flush is weak
Check the water level in the tank before assuming anything else.
It leaks at the base
That is a different and more serious problem.
Parts are unavailable
Universal replacements exist for most mechanisms.

Picking by the fitting you need

A running toilet

The commonest fault, usually a worn flush valve seal, and it wastes a surprising amount of water.

A weak flush

Usually the tank water level rather than the pan, and adjustable in most mechanisms.

A slow fill

Often a scaled or partly closed shutoff valve rather than a fault in the toilet.

Leaks

Where the location tells you whether it is a simple seal or a job for someone else.

What is worth checking in a fitting

Identifying the mechanism
Most tanks use a small number of standard types, and universal replacements exist for nearly all of them.
The water level
Set too low it flushes weakly; too high it runs into the overflow. It is adjustable and frequently wrong.
Where it leaks
At the tank is usually a seal; at the base may be the bowl connector or worse, and that changes who does the work.
Isolation
A shutoff valve on the supply makes every repair simple. Fitting one is worth doing at the same time.
Scale
In hard water it affects valves and seals directly, and it explains many slow or partial faults.

Which figure for which bathroom

The symptomThe likely partThe difficulty
Runs constantlyFlush valve sealStraightforward
Weak flushWater levelAdjustment only
Slow refillFill valve or shutoff valveStraightforward
Leaks at the baseBowl connector or worseCall someone

What people get wrong here

Replacing the whole toilet for a running tank
It is almost always a seal or a valve, both inexpensive parts. The pan is rarely the problem.
Ignoring a constant run
It wastes water continuously and quietly, and the fix is usually a single inexpensive component.
Assuming parts are unavailable
Universal replacements cover most tank mechanisms, even old ones. Take the old part with you.
Working on it without shutoff
Turn the supply off and test it. Tank work with the water on goes badly.

By who is fitting it

The running toilet
Needs a flush valve seal, which is the commonest repair in the whole bathroom.
The weak flush
Usually just needs the tank water level adjusting upward.
The leak at the base
Should stop and get it looked at, because the causes there are more serious.

Cleaning, scale and working life

Tank parts are rubber and plastic sitting permanently in water, and in hard water they scale as well as perish. They fail gradually and quietly, which is why a toilet can waste water for months before anyone notices anything at all.

  • Listen for a toilet that runs after filling; it is easy to stop hearing.
  • Descale tank parts in hard water areas.
  • Replace perished seals rather than adjusting around them.
  • Exercise the shutoff valve occasionally so it turns when needed.

Safety

Water and old fittings.

  • Isolate the supply and test before opening a tank.
  • Support the tank when working on it; old fixings can be brittle.
  • Stop if you find a leak at the base rather than the tank.
  • Take care lifting ceramic, which is heavy and breaks sharply.

Prices quoted in this text were read on October 29, 2026. The live price is at the top of the page.

What we chose, and on what grounds

  1. Fluidmaster 555C PerforMAX flush valve kit

    Universal PerforMAX 2 in toilet flush valve repair kit with a peel-and-stick design eliminating glue and requiring no tank removal, including the PerforMAX adjustable water-saving flapper whose dial controls flush volume; a 2 in flush valve replacement kit suitable from 1.28 gallon high-efficiency designs to older 3.5 gallon per flush toilets, built from corrosion-resistant materials with a 5 year warranty per the maker description; the listing states a limit of one per order and that returns will not be honoured on this closeout item

    A universal 2 in flush valve repair kit with a peel-and-stick seal and an adjustable PerforMAX flapper.

    Best for: A leaking two-inch flush valve, measured first — the cheapest complete repair on this shelf

    ≈ $12

  2. Danco HydroRight dual flush converter

    HydroRight water-saving dual flush valve with push-button handle in plastic and chrome, converting most standard toilets into a dual-flush toilet using up to 70% less water for liquids and paper, and replacing a worn flapper, chain and handle in one part; fitting 1.6 to 3.5+ gallon per flush standard 2-piece toilets with a 2 in flush valve and requiring a 10 inch minimum clearance from the highest point of the flush valve opening to the inside of the tank lid, and stated not to fit Mansfield toilets; drop-in installation without tools in under 20 minutes with no tank removal; a chemical-resistant Perma fit silicone seal stated not to warp; the maker states a family of four saves more than 15,000 gallons a year and that the reduced flush is the setting needed four times out of five

    A dual-flush conversion valve with a two-button handle, fitting 2 in valve two-piece toilets without tools.

    Best for: An older 1.6 to 3.5 GPF toilet with a 2 in valve, where halving the water is worth twenty minutes

    ≈ $26

  3. Kohler Brevia Quiet-Close elongated seat

    Elongated and compact elongated, 18 × 14.18 in · plastic · Quiet-Close · Grip-Tight bumpers · Quick-Attach hardware · quick-release hinges · 1-year warranty

    A KOHLER plastic seat with Quiet-Close, Grip-Tight bumpers that stop it sliding, Quick-Attach hardware and quick-release hinges — and a fit for compact elongated bowls too.

    Best for: A KOHLER or other compact elongated toilet, where a standard elongated seat would overhang

    ≈ $31

The questions we get

How do I know which part is leaking?

Add a few drops of food coloring to the tank and wait twenty minutes without flushing. Color in the bowl means the flapper or flush valve is passing water. No color, but the tank still refills by itself, points to the fill valve or a water level set above the overflow tube.

Is my flush valve 2 or 3 inches?

Look at the drain opening at the bottom of the tank, under the flapper. Most toilets made in the last twenty years use 3-inch valves; older ones often 2-inch. The two flappers are not interchangeable, so measure before ordering.

Why does my flush no longer clear the bowl?

Usually not enough water reaches it: a flapper closing too early, a water level set too low, or rim holes blocked with scale. Check the tank level against the line on the overflow tube before buying anything.

Do I need to remove the tank?

To replace a flapper, no. To replace a complete flush valve, usually yes; the Fluidmaster PerforMAX and Danco HydroRight on this list are designed to go in without taking the tank off.

Will a bidet attachment fit my toilet?

A non-electric attachment slides between the bowl and your existing seat and tees off the cold supply at the shutoff valve. It needs no outlet. Check there is room for the side arm and that your seat sits flat on it.

Each fitting, and the bathroom it belongs in

Fluidmaster 5403 · $17

Right for: A high-efficiency 3 in toilet that needs a flapper tuned to flush properly, with cover for a decade

Its best quality: Ten years of warranty on a flapper, which is the longest cover anywhere on this shelf and remarkable on a rubber part

Its main catch: Four dollars ninety-one more than the Korky flapper beside it, which publishes a stainless steel chain this does not

Read the full review: Fluidmaster 5403 →

Danco HYR270 HydroRight · $26

Right for: An older 1.6 to 3.5 GPF toilet with a 2 in valve, where halving the water is worth twenty minutes

Its best quality: The only product on this shelf that changes what the toilet does rather than restoring it, and it publishes real figures for the saving

Its main catch: Will not fit Mansfield toilets, which the listing states — and Mansfield’s own valve is two products away on this shelf

Read the full review: Danco HYR270 HydroRight →

Kohler 20110-0 · $31

Right for: A KOHLER or other compact elongated toilet, where a standard elongated seat would overhang

Its best quality: Fits compact elongated bowls as well as standard elongated, the only seat here that says so

Its main catch: Plastic hinges, color-matched rather than metal

Read the full review: Kohler 20110-0 →

LUXE Bidet NEO 120 · $40

Right for: Anyone whose first question about a bidet is where the nozzle sits between uses

Its best quality: A guard gate with nozzles that retract behind it — the most convincing hygiene arrangement published on this shelf

Its main catch: Three bullets: no thickness, no pressure control described, no toilet compatibility and no nozzle count

Read the full review: LUXE Bidet NEO 120 →

What changes as the price goes up

The one-line version

Comparisons that help here

Side-by-side pieces already published on two fittings from this guide or this aisle.

What this ranking rests on

The fittings listed come from this catalog of this site. Specifications are the published ones, from the maker and from the Amazon page; prices are what Keepa reported on the date below, and both move over time. The order uses declared specifications, the balance between stated strengths and stated limits, and price. No fitting here has been installed or tried by us, and the page does not claim it was.

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