Does fitting a bidet seat count as electrical work?

A non-electric bidet seat needs no electricity at all; an electric one needs a socket, and adding a socket in a bathroom is regulated work. That single distinction decides the product before any feature does.

The non-electric seat

It tees off the cold supply at the cistern’s angle valve and uses line pressure. No socket, no wiring, and water at whatever temperature the supply is. Fitting it is plumbing, and the manufacturer’s instructions cover it.

The electric seat

It heats the water and often the seat, and it needs a permanent supply within reach of the toilet. Most European bathrooms were never built with one. Adding it means new wiring in a damp room, which is subject to your national wiring rules on zones, protection and who may do the work.

What this site does and does not say

It reports what a manufacturer states a product needs. It does not describe how to add a socket, which zone your wall falls into, or whether an extension lead is acceptable — the answer to the last is no, and the rest is for a qualified electrician and the rules that apply where you live.

The practical consequence

If there is no socket beside the toilet, the honest shortlist is non-electric.

This does not replace the manufacturer's own instructions. Every dimension, thread size, flow rate, operating pressure, water seal depth and load figure on this page is reported from the manufacturer's own documentation, with its unit written as published, and named as such — none of it is measured here. A flow rate is reported with the pressure the manufacturer measured it at, and is never converted to another pressure, because no conversion exists. And the statement repeated rather than assumed: the 38 °C stop on a thermostatic mixer is a mechanical detent you can deliberately push past, not a scald-prevention device. What your installation needs is answered by the mixer's own instructions and by your national plumbing rules, and nothing here replaces them.